projet Lulu - tête avec oreilles p7 bas

Et bien, bravo pour Galatée! Habillée, coiffée et tout^^
Tu as fini ton premier projet, c'est c'est génial!

lol, vi, suis contente!X3 j'arrête pas de la mitrailler de photos depuis hier pour le coup et je la balade dans toute la maison... *complètement gaga*

bonjour!!

et bonjour à Galatée alors!!

Exellente avec les cheveux rose!!!!

bravo oui d'avoir pu mener ton projet à bien, en ce qui me concerne j'en ai telement délaissée que j'ai un "tirroir cimetière".. .. donc je suis toujours contente de voir des personne qui finissent leur projet!

félicitation!! et maintenant on veut voir l'autre!!!! ^^ bonne continuation!!

Bon, comme il faisait beau aujourd'hui, j'ai enfin avancé ma deuxième poupée^^ J'aurai d'ailleurs besoin de conseils à ce sujet... Je voudrai qu'elle soit typée assez asiatique (de préférence en faire une vietnamienne ou proche) et j'ai de sérieux doutes pour son visages...^^;







Voilà... désolée pour la mauvaise qualité des photos, mais l'appareil n'aime pas l'obscurité et les piles viennent seulement de finir de charger...T_T

et pour le fun, ma première photostory avec ma jolie Galatée en star: http://tagath.blogspot.com/2007/04/photostory.html

Bon, j'aimerai lancer un appel à l'aide à toutes les personnes qui pourraient passer par là!^^

Je suis en train de faire les jambes de ma deuxième petiote et bien entendu, les genoux me posent sérieusement problème. Ceux de Galatée étaient très ratés et je ne m'en soucie pas tellement, mais je voudrai que la petite nouvelle soit un peu plus posable et plus réussie d'une manière générale.

Y aurait-il par ici des âmes nobles et généreuses prêtes à prendre en photos les genoux de leurs BJDs que je tente de comprendre comment tout ça s'organise? (et tant que j'y suis, des photos de coudes ne seraient pas de refus non plus^^)

Merci d'avance à tout ceux et celles qui répondraient à cet appel désespéré!^^

je sais pas si ca peut t'aider mais je poste ca quand meme
bisous stephanie[img][/img]

attends je crois que j'en ai d'autres
bisous
stephanie[img][/img]c'est celle que j'utilise comme model

merci pour les photos^^ comme ça je vais au moins avoir une idée de l'allure que ça a^^

et, euh... est-ce que ça serait aussi possible des photos avec les genoux pliés? (vi, ze demande plein de choses...v_v mais cette articulation là, j'ai vraiment du mal...v_v)

bah.............zenoux pliées z'en ai pas désolé..........
bisous
stephanie

Merci quand même Stéphanie^^ tes photos m'aident déjà un peu^^

Sinon, voici des photos de la bête!^^




J'aime bien son profil... elle a un nez intéressant je trouve^^


Mais son visage est définitivement un peu trop masculin... je ne voulais pas qu'elle soit féminine, mais là c'est un peu trop je pense...v_v

J'avais poster le lien vers un sujet de Den of Angel dans la liste des tutos utiles.
La réponse à la vie, l'univers et plus encore
plus sérieusement, c'est vraiment très utile

Pour le rendre plus féminin, il suffirait peut-être d'affiner les joues et le menton. Pour ma part, je descendrais un poil les yeux pour les rapprocher du nez, aussi^ ^

et en quote le lien de natanekok pour ceux qui s'ont pas inscrits sur doa:

Citation :

When I started out making my first doll, I was basing my designs off antique ball jointing, from the 50s-70s and such. The technology has improved and modern ball joints are much more sophisticated. There are a lot of little variation in the ways different dolls are jointed, and different ways to make some joints more or less stiff. I've been diagramming different kinds of joints and taking photos when I have the opportunity and I've decided to start keeping them all in one place, rather than scattering them all over and loosing track of them. I plan to update these schematics as I have the opportunity to take apart more dolls, but for now we're working off of an Angel Region/Blue Fairy and an SDYo, as well as a doll I did not take the name of down... :sweat The photos mixed in here come from the Angel and the Yo.


Some doll heads fit very snuggly over the neck joint, but some allow more wiggle room. As usual, this is going to be a compromise of flexibility against rigidity, to get maximum possibility from your doll while giving them the ability to hold their head up. Most dolls have the hole in the base of the head being a slot so that it can be slid easily over the S-hook and then the S-hook can be pulled and then turned so it sits sideways against the slot, and does not fall through.



Arms with a single joint at the elbow (rather than a three-piece elbow which allows the arm to bend back on itself) are pretty much all jointed the same, with the elbow ball on the lower piece. Some dolls (Luts, SD16 and others) have a cup in the shoulder, between the bicep and the torso, which adds an extra degree of flexibility. The most variation here is going to be found on wrist joints. The more traditional wrist joint has the hand and ball being one piece, the ball has a channel going about halfway through it, a bar is imbedded inside the ball, around which an S-hook rotates (hand A). This type of wrist is easy to make for a sculpted doll, but a little more difficult for casting in resin.
I personally prefer the design that Angel Region and Blue Fairy (hand B) use for wrists, because they're so easy to make and they pose just as well as a more complicated joint. They have a little concave on both the end of the forearm and the hand, and then in between, there is just a large pony-bead shape. The hole in the middle should be large enough that it doesn’t get in the way of the inner hook at all, but just rotate around it.
Volks and some other companies use a more complicated joint for both the wrist and ankle that involves having an indentation in the base of the hand into which a cup fits (hand C). There is an I-hook embedded in the hand which does not move. The elastic is held by an S-hook that slips into the I-hook, as it goes through a slot in the cup. These are complicated joints to make (and not recommended unless you're working in resin) but they do provide an advantage because they make it much easier to remove or change a doll's hands and feet. After pulling the S-hook fully through to the hand side of the cup, it can be turned sideways, and hold its position in the same manner as the S-hook in the head, while the hand or foot is removed.


There are two main kinds of torso joints, most dolls have either an upper-torso (chest) joint or a lower-torso (waist) joint, but some (like SD16, Hound and others) have both, although this tends to give you a very floppy doll unless you put in mechanisms to keep their backs straight.
With an upper-torso joint, the stomach/hip piece generally slips inside of the chest piece. In many cases, they have a large-ish hole in the lower piece in order to cast it hollow but then have a 'plug' of resin glued onto the top of that void after casting with a smaller hole, which helps the doll to stay upright by restricting the elastic a bit.
For a waist joint, generally the stomach piece slips inside of the hip piece. The pieces often have a bit of a ledge or catch for them to sit neatly on but can be put into a slouch or lean. I do not have a photo of this type of joint, I will try to get one soon.
For dolls with just one of these joints, it's mainly a matter of personal preference, they both provide a similar amount of movement. For dolls with both of these, they are significantly more flexible but also more difficult to make stand upright.


Pretty much all dolls are jointed the same at the thighs. Some of the newest dolls have an extra piece to make them rotate as well as bending, but this is pretty much just to allow the doll to sit in a 'swariko' position. But this is how antique dolls are jointed as well as the vast majority of resin dolls. Again you have a compromise in flexibility to aesthetics and stability here. The more of the thigh joint that is cupped in by the hip, the more stable it will be, but if you have the hip going too far around the joint, then it can't bend properly and your doll will have a difficult time standing or sitting up. This you should play with and decide what feels best to you. In order to stand easily, the hips need to go out fairly far to the sides, so that they cover the tops of the thighs, this is fine for girls hips, but it takes some doing to make a boy doll without child-bearing hips. I'm not entirely sure how much of this needs description, please comment if you're unclear on something here.


the jointing in the legs of a doll provide more of a challenge than the arms, because they have to support and balance the doll's weight. Because of this, there are a lot more variations on knees among dolls than elbows. The traditional method is basically the same as the elbow joints and perhaps strung a bit tighter, but a doll made in that manner can have trouble standing, which is why Volks added catches to the back of their doll's knees, to help them hold a standing position. The catches work well to lock the doll's knees in place, but then make shifting between poses very jerky and it is difficult for a Volks doll to hold a half-bent pose.
Angle Region and Blue Fairy dolls use a smooth, round knee joint, but with the modification that it is a part of the thigh piece, rather than being attached to the lower-leg (leg A). I find this works quite well for allowing the doll to both hold a pose and transition smoothly between two positions. Angel Region dolls are strung very tightly, and that might also be a factor in allowing the doll to easily stand upright.
The unidentified doll mentioned at the beginning comes in here with the knees. What intrigued me with that doll was that the knee-joints, rather than being round, were egg-shaped (leg B). This worked in a similar manner to the catches that Volks dolls have, for holding locking the knees, but because it didn't have that ridge in it, it allowed a very smooth transition between locked and bent.
Most ankles are jointed fairly similarly to the wrists, with the traditional style or the cup covering the hook and the lower-leg sitting on top of that (foot B). A modification on Volks and some other dolls is having a key, a little protrusion in the front or back of the cup. It's loose so that they're easy enough to get out (if you turn them up side down and stretch out some space for them, they'll just fall out) but it keeps them from turning around in the sockets. The AR/BF dolls have their ankle joint attached to the calf piece, which I don't really think adds an advantage or disadvantage.

Please let me know if there are any joints you still have confusion on!

alors ca c'est super tout est clair
bisous
stephanie

J'avais fait quelques photos pour nynaeve ^^


Bambicrony :
Le head cap est facile à enlever, mais à tendance à venir avec la wig... Mais il faut dire que je ne fixe pas le crochet à l'anneau par fainéantise... Elle est très stable debout grace au cran, idem assise. en plus, on peut la mettre en lotus grace à la jointure des cuisses !








Kid Delf :
Je ne t'ai pris que le head cap...
Par contre, j'utilise un anneau de porte clef avec un élastique, car je n'avais plus de crochet en 'S' au moment où j'ai monté la tête sur ce corps, mais ça permet d'accéder facilement aux yeux !






Narin :
Les plus belles jambes que j'ai jamais vu (avec celles des u-noa) et un système très pratique pour changer une faceplate ou des yeux !








Voilà ! en espérant que ça te serve ^^